Wednesday, July 7, 2010

La Roquète, Baby!

In 1986, Henri Brunier decided it was high time to retire from his family's venerable Châteauneuf-du-Pape property, Domaine du Vieux Telégraph. While he was leaving Vieux Telégraph in the capable hands of his sons Frédéric and Daniel, Henri Brunier had the foresight to consider that the two sons might not work hand-in-hand together. It was this possibility that prompted Mr. Brunier, on the eve of his retirement, to purchase Domaine La Roquète...the idea being that should the two brothers have a falling out, each would have their own winery to tend to.

Luckily for Henri - and for us - the brothers Brunier work well together. Exceptionally well together.

And while Vieux Telégraph seems to garner most of the attention, the Bruniers have made great strides at La Roquète over the last two decades, improving both the winery, increasing the plantings and improving the wines. In structure, exposure and location La Roquète differs greatly from those at Vieux Telégraph; confirming that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is indeed a huge mosaic of personalities. Where "VT" is essentially one lieu-dit (La Crau), La Roquète’s is composed of the lieux-dits of Piélong, Pignan, La Roquète, Colombis and Cabrière.

To further differentiate the domaines, the Bruniers had decided to utilize different U.S. importers...Vieux Telégraph being imported by Kermit Lynch, and La Roquète by a much larger, commercial importer. Well, time has proven to the Bruniers that perhaps this wasn't the best idea, and they recently brought La Roquète into the Kermit Lynch portfolio, where it will finally receive the attention it deserves.

Before this change of importers was made public, I met with Daniel Brunier and Bruce Neyers (Kermit Lynch's national sales manager and 'right-hand man') to discuss the La Roquète. They had no sooner said the words, "Mat, would you be interested..." than I interrupted with an "Absolutely!" I am proud to say that Quality Wine & Spirits is the first wholesaler to have been offered La Roquète via Kermit Lynch.

We have received a fair - but limited - allocation of the following wines of La Roquète. For those interested I've included the Parker reviews for each:

2009
La Roquète Blanc
"Readers should not ignore La Roquete’s white wine. The Chateauneuf du Pape blanc (a blend of equal parts Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Bourboulenc) exhibits aromas of anise, flowers, quince, and white peaches in its richly fruity, elegant personality. Consume it over the next year. 90 Points."

2007 La Roquète Rouge in both 375s, 750s and magnums
"The finest tradition cuvee yet made, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre aged in foudre and concrete tanks) possesses a deep ruby/purple-tinged color as well as a bouquet of black currants, black cherries, garrigue, pepper, and lavender. It is a full-bodied, ripe, exceptionally elegant, pure wine to drink now or cellar for 12-15 years. 93 Points."

2007 L'Accent de Roquète Rouge
"The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape l’Accent de Roquete, a 450-case luxury cuvee composed of 100% Grenache aged one year in tank and one year in foudre, comes from a lieu-dit called Les Pialons. This superb effort displays a dense ruby/purple color as well as a flamboyant aromatic display of black raspberry jam, kirsch, pepper, licorice, and incense, full-bodied power, sensational purity, a multilayered texture, and a sumptuous, 60-second finish. A riveting Chateauneuf du Pape, it is the finest effort ever produced by La Roquete. It should drink well for two decades or more. 96 Points."

These wines will arrive into Minnesota early September. You'd be wise to take a position on these before they're all gone. I know that I sure will!

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