Given my choices, I prefer to back the underdog…to ‘tilt at windmills’, if you will. If you're someone who thinks Beaujolais is French soda pop, allow me introduce him to the wines of Chanrion, Thivin, Chignard and Diochon. Your perceptions are sure to change.
The same is true when it comes to that Italian white, Soave. Crafted from that misunderstood orphan of a grape, Garganenega, Soave has an undeserved reputation for being similar to making love in a canoe (if you don’t understand the reference, I will be glad to clarify). The reason for Soave’s lack of respect is due to huge Veneto wine consortiums pumping out hundreds of thousands of gallons of Soave like so much crude oil. And, believe me, the wines coming from these producers has more in common with crude oil than wine. But, when the focus is on quality over quantity, Soave can be a profound, sublime wine.
And we just happen to represent the two best Soaves being produced on this (or any other) planet. I quote from Robert Parker:
2009 CORTE SANT’ALDA SOAVE “Vigne di Mezzane” (#89114)
“Quite pretty and expressive in its freshly cut flowers, lime peel and wet stones. This distinctive white shows plenty of subtlety as well as refinement. 88 Points.”
2009 GINI SOAVE CLASSICO (#60234)
“Especially round in this vintage. An expressive, floral bouquet leads to peaches, apricots and spices in this soft, engaging Soave. 89 Points.”In short, Sant’Alda is more mineral-driven, while Gini is more about stone fruits. Both serve as benchmarks for the Soave appellation and Gaganenega grape. If you’ve got Soave on your shelf/list and it’s not one of these, then they don’t know Soave from Shinola.
Be prepared to have your mind blown.
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