Tuesday, June 15, 2010

The Life of Brian.

Yesterday I had the good fortune of spending the day with Brian Loring of the Loring Wine Company (LWC). We traveled from Prior Lake to Minneapolis, from Minnetonka to St. Paul, meeting with retailers and restaurateurs, and introducing them to Brian and his wines. I've known Brian Loring for over ten years, and have since been of the conviction that he is one of the nicest guys in the wine business. Yesterday only served to confirm this thought.

Brian's passion for drinking Pinot Noir came full circle in 1999, when he crushed his first vintage for LWC. Since then, the winery has grown to nearly 7,000 cases, and - at times - 14 separate, unique bottlings of Pinot Noirs from leading appellations within California and Oregon. He has been joined in his labor of love by his equally amazing sister, Kimberly, and the two remain the sole employees...doing everything chore from cellar rat to business manager, from truck driver (they have their own refrigerated big rig to haul their fruit in) to road warrior.

To be sure, wine is a reflection of place...but to some extent, wine is also a reflection of the person who crafted it. The wines of Loring Wine Company reflect both the characteristics of vineyard site and the characters behind the scenes. Loring wines are bright, generous and truly fun to drink. Spend any amount of time with Brian or Kimberly and you'll come away a lot more enthusiastic about wine than you were before you met them. With Brian, you get the sense that here's a man who truly enjoys what he is doing...and that he's well aware of how fortunate he is to be doing it.

I've followed Loring from the very start, as has Jim Laube of Wine Spectator. Both of us remain big fans of the wine...Laube so much so that I swear I can't pick up a copy of the Spectator without seeing Brian's face smiling back at me. Laube's praise of LWC is well-deserved. Tasting through the six Loring wines we were showing yesterday (all from the 2008 vintage), I'm convinced that Brian has taken his winemaking to the next level. While the initial five or so vintages reflected a Nigel Tufnel-esque, "this one goes to eleven" approach to Pinot Noir, there has been a finessing of the wines of late. Brian openly admits that his early wines were all about pushing to see how big they could get, and that today he has a lighter approach. I also feel that with 11 vintages in the bag, Loring has gotten a great sense of how to play to each vineyards' strengths. In short, both vineyards and winemakers have matured.

The 2008 vintage was a challenge throughout California. You wouldn't know it by tasting the Loring wines. They are impressive. Sure, there's still that LWC ripe, generous whack of Pinot, but there's also amazing and complex aromas, great layers of complexity and a deftness of finish that confirms to me that Loring is hitting its stride. Sadly, the wines are fairly scarce. Do the math, 7,000 cases divided by 14 bottlings equals tight allocations. But these are wines worth seeking out, for they are wines that don't disapoint.

Taking over the Fine Wine helm at Quality I knew there were producers I wanted to add to our portfolio. The first call I made was to Brian. When I asked if we could sell his wines, he responded with an enthusiastic "you bet!" . I urge you to check out our initial allocations soon. It would be my pleasure to introduce you to the wines of Loring Wine Company...and to Brian as well. I'm sure you'll agree with me that Brian Loring is one of the good guys.

CURRENTLY AVAILABLE OFFERINGS FROM LORING
with Wine Spectator Reviews

- 73454 / Central Coast

“Offers mineral and loamy earth flavors, with dried berry, sage, herb and cedar. Full-bodied, with a touch of porcini mushroom, ending with dried graphite and earth flavors. Drink now through 2014. 600 cases made. 89 Points.:”

- 73534 / Clos Pepe, Sta. Rita Hills

“Smooth, supple and graceful, with fleshy plum, black cherry, wild berry and hints of spice and floral scents, gaining depth and richness on the finish, where the flavors fan out nicely. Drink now through 2016. 175 cases made. 92 Points”

- 73484 / Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast

“Combines subtlety with finesse, offering rich, elegant layers of plum, black cherry and wild berry fruit that's delicate, floral and spicy. Gains depth on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 250 cases made. 92 Points.”

- 73524 / Garys’ Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands

“Gentle and supple-textured, yet firm and structured, with ripe plum, black cherry and wild berry fruit that offers a hint of anise and sage, gaining depth and nuance on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2016. 525 cases made. 92 Points.”

- 73494 / Keefer Ranch, Green Valley of Russian River Valley

“Supple, harmonious and spicy, offering ripe plum and black cherry, with a touch of anise and mineral notes that are medium-bodied, complex and delicate. Drink now through 2014. 675 cases made. 89 Points.”

- 73494 / Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands

“Combines firm wild berry, black cherry, plum and mineral notes in a tight, structured manner. Full-bodied, complex and concentrated, revealing extra flavor and depth. Ends with a long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2015. 575 cases made.

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