Loring Pinots Score BIG-TIME in Wine Spectator!

13 California Pinot Noirs

New reviews of the 2009 lineup from Brian Loring

James Laube
Posted: January 3, 2011

If Brian Loring’s Pinot Noirs are any indication of how good 2009 will be, Pinot lovers are in for a treat.

Loring’s Pinots are usually among the first released, and this is perhaps his strongest vintage to date. Across the board, the 2009s display uniform ripeness, depth, richness, purity of flavor and complexity. Dark in color, impeccably balanced, they exhibit tiers of dark berry fruit.

The 2009 vintage turned out to be a great year for Pinot. Other grapes may have struggled with the late season and rain at harvest, but most of the Pinot came off the vines early, ripe and in great shape. The growing season was cool to moderate, and these wines are a testament to the ideal ripening pattern. None push ripeness to excess.

Some vineyard names here are familiar to Pinot lovers, such as Durell, Rosella’s, Garys’, Clos Pepe, Keefer, Cargasacchi, along with one big surprise, the outstanding Russell Family Vineyard from Paso Robles, which isn’t known for Pinot, but which certainly has cooler coastal sites and fine soils that should serve this grape well.

Loring has added a few appellation wines, too, for $29, and those should be on everyone’s short list, proof that excellent Pinot can be made at under $30. That’s an accomplishment. Look for the Russian River, Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Ynez bottlings at $29.

LORING Pinot Noir Paso Robles Russell Family Vineyard 2009 Score: 94 | $45

Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, featuring a rich, pure mix of dark berry fruit built around blackberry and wild berry jam, cherry and plum flavors. This is a jam-packed, extracted Pinot, but also one of measurable finesse. Drink now through 2020. 250 cases made.

—J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Rosella's Vineyard 2009 Score: 94 | $45

Ripe and fleshy, with a gorgeous and generous array of wild berry, raspberry, plum and spice flavors that are full-bodied, and at points both firm and delicate. The finish unfolds to reveal touches of mineral and spice. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard 2009 Score: 94 | $45

Fresh and vibrant, offering snappy wild berry, cherry, plum and floral-lavender scents that are rich, complex, elegant and full-bodied. This fleshy and supple Pinot is most impressive on the finish, where the flavors retain their refreshing juiciness. Drink now through 2019. 200 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley Graham Family Vineyard 2009 Score: 93 | $45

Fairly rich and dense, offering deeply perfumed and concentrated dark berry flavors that are tightly wound and framed by notes of mineral and fresh-turned earth. Well-structured tannins. Flavors build and gain depth on the long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2020. 150 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2009 Score: 93 | $29

Weaving together a complex array of earthy berry, spice and floral scents, this is full-bodied and deceptively firm and muscular. The core of ripe plum and blackberry flavors builds, sustaining depth and momentum. Drink now through 2018. 600 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2009 Score: 93 | $29

Displays a wonderful purity of flavors built around ripe plum, wild berry, blackberry, raspberry and spice, as well as floral and wilted rose hints. This is full-bodied, plush and jammy on the long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2016. 600 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard 2009 Score: 93 | $45

Serves up a rich, layered array of spicy wild berry, black cherry, wilted rose and raspberry flavors that are fresh and vibrant. Full-bodied, gaining depth and richness on the finish. Drink now through 2019. 450 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard 2009 Score: 93 | $45

Firmly tannic, well-structured and deeply concentrated, with a complex mix of dark berry, spice, plum and blackberry. Full-bodied and well-balanced, this is one of the most backward and promising of the young new Lorings. Best from 2011 through 2020. 1000 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley Keefer Ranch Vineyard 2009 Score: 92 | $45

Firm, intense and concentrated, displaying loamy earth and fresh, racy raspberry flavors as well as wild berry, plum and violet notes. Full-bodied, focused and persistent, this is very appealing now and in the immediate future. Drink now through 2018. 400 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Cargasacchi Vineyard 2009 Score: 92 | $45

Supple, elegant and generous, with fleshy plum, black cherry and blueberry fruit that is delicate and full-bodied. Retains its graceful balance, firming on the persistent finish. Drink now through 2017. 175 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Rancho La Viña Vineyard 2009 Score: 91 | $45

Firm and spicy, taut with lively acidity and tannins. The core flavors of berry, black cherry and spice, while tannic, are pure and focused, expansive and layered on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 125 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir San Luis Obispo County Aubaine Vineyard 2009 Score: 90 | $45

A bold, ripe, vivid and jammy style that teeters on racy (if not balsamic), this nonetheless delivers a zesty mix of wild berry flavors that are rich and extracted, with a long, complex finish. Drink now through 2017. 500 cases made. —J.L.

LORING Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2009 Score: 88 | $29

Firm, dense and chewy, with muscular tannins wrapped around a core of mineral, dark berry, spice and sage flavors. The most tannic and gripping of the Loring appellation wines. Drink now through 2017. 600 cases made. —J.L.