Update From Andre Ostertag

Andre Ostertag is not only one of the finest producers in all of Alsace, he's also one of the best winegrowers in the world. His attention to detail is almost as legendary as his willingness to forsake convention in his unending search to craft the finest wines possible. His wines serve as testimony to the fact that his search has not been in vain.

Andre sent us an email today, updating us on his take on the recent vintages. I thought that you might find it interesting reading.

"My first impressions after the 2010 harvest : The 2010 harvest is just over now and vintage looks like none of the former 30 ones I have vinified so far.

This is an old-fashioned vintage, I mean before global warming when we would harvest in October; a cool if not cold vintage, a bit like 1996 but, unlike some of the 1996’s, with very ripe flavour profiles. 2010 also looks like 2008 with almost the same harvesting times and maturity levels, while acidity is higher for the same alcohol content.

But the main feature of the 2010 vintage for now is low yields due to very bad flowering. In fact, flowering was disturbed through very cold weather causing coulure and hens and chickens, especially on the Rieslings and Gewurztraminers! So we had to cut off loads of bunches to end up with very little juice. 2010 will be engraved in the annals for its solid/liquid ratio, which is strongly in favor of skins and flesh at the expense of juice.

The 2010’s may then be well-structured wines with nice dry matter, indicating they may keep for a while. But we also foresee difficult sales since we have had to raise our prices due to low crop!

My impressions on 2009, after ageing and bottling: The 2009’s are now on their own and completely free from their supporting vintner! We finished bottling in mid-September. I tasted them recently and they appeared quite promising.

2009 is very different from 2010 or 2008. It is a solar vintage, as hot as a rattlesnake but not as scorching and overpowering as 2003 but rather blazing, like 1989. Of course, the wines are round and radiant but they rely on lively minerality. I cannot say enough times that biodynamic farming is good and naturally balances things out!

In 2009 the growing cycle was serene, without stress or incident until the last day of harvesting. The only pitfall was that the vintage was so rich that wines might have kept some sugar to end up sweet and imbalanced. None of that happened. Well, fermentations were long and slow but the wines were all dry wines in the end. Of course, acidity is less lively than in 2008 but beautifully supported by balancing minerality.

2009 is a solar and sensual vintage, with fresh and unctuous ripe fruit blooming from the mineral-based soil; serious yet easy-to-drink, it’s just damn good!

My impressions on the 2008 vintage after one year in bottle: 2008 is not a solar vintage, all the less a burning hot one; it would rather be completely the opposite since 2008 is so crystal-clear, like the starry sky of some clear winter night.

Indeed 2008 has all the features of the cool years that give birth to wonderful classic gems. 2008 is an elegant vintage, of course, extremely rich in details and refined textures, never showy but showing incredible energy. 2008 reminds me of 1988 in a more vibrant way; that is, a vintage for Riesling aficionados, a vintage to lay down, a vintage for those who can wait.

Regards from André Ostertag"